The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.

It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with round mauve grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed people hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make vintage from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout the city. It is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Around the Globe

To date, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units inside urban environments," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a city," notes the president.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and then incorporate a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a fence on

Heather Terry
Heather Terry

A seasoned betting analyst with over a decade of experience in sports statistics and odds forecasting.